Loch na Kiel

Tuesday, May 4 

Waking to a dry, if cloudy, morning, we breakfasted, emptied the moth trap and were away soon after nine. A few moths in the trap, fourteen of four species, nine of which were Red Chestnuts. Powdered Quaker and Clouded Drabs made up the numbers, with a couple of Hebrew Characters.

A quick look at Loch Cuin on the way, then the reed-bed - no Sedge Warbler singing. The morning started well  when a short way along the road to Salen, I saw a White-tailed Eagle making its apparently unhurried,  way along the ridge, towards Dervaig. Those massive, broad wings with their slow beat, give the impression of a leisurely pace, I'm sure it's faster. There is a local, well kept secret, nest. Three years ago, it was in a fir tree near to our cottage. The Forestry Commission cut down most of the trees around it, leaving it in an isolated clump. The following year, the birds moved elsewhere.

As we approached Salen, we had to pull in to a passing place. Below us I spotted a Grey Heron wrestling a fish which was wrapping itself around the bird's beak. This is where I wish I had my editing programme, the light was not good. The same goes all day.

 

Nothing else of note until we reached Loch na Kiel, a well known birding area for Mull's visitors. There is a long used nest on both shores. We have seen six eagles in the air at once here, it was a nest dispute by young birds trying to usurp the old pair. We stayed for an hour, surrounded by zipping Sand Martins, one of the ubiquitous and vocal, Common Sandpipers, carolling from the top of  a telegraph pole. 

 

Pam spotted a very distant Golden Eagle soaring above the snow covered peaks on the southern shore.

We then drove the south bank of the loch, seeing a Great Northern Diver and a Rock Pipit, little else. Re-tracing our journey, we drove the north shore, taking the Calgary coast road. This is very scenic, with panoramic views of the mouth of the loch and the island, Inch Kenneth. Shortly after I took this photo, black clouds rolled in, we were engulfed in a hail and sleet shower. The temperature dropped even further.

The island is 55 hectares in area and is Geologically different from the rest of Mull. Inch Kenneth is one of the most historically important islands in Scotland. Along with Iona, this island has a significant number of important burials of the kings of Scotland. The island (Innis Choinnich) was named after St Kenneth, who founded a monastery on the island.

Dominated by the sea cliffs at Gribun, Inch Kenneth occupies a truly quintessential Hebridean setting. Only one mile in length and half that distance at its widest, the island provides easy walking.

Composed of sedimentary conglomerates and limestones, Inch Kenneth is a fertile oasis amidst the volcanic lava flows that predominate much of Mull’s landscapes. The island’s fine, sandy soil promotes flower-rich grassland in Spring and Summer, while providing nourishment for a 200-strong herd of Barnacle Geese that arrive each Autumn from breeding grounds in Greenland.

Inch Kenneth was the home of the song writer and philanthropist, Sir Harold Bolton. Bolton wrote the lyrics to the ‘Skye Boat Song’. The island became infamous during the Second World War due to its connection with the Mitford family, who bought the island in 1938.

One of six sisters, Unity Mitford was a staunch supporter of the Fascist movement and an admirer of Adolf Hitler, with whom she became a friend. Held back in her early life by her prettier and more clever sisters, Unity craved attention and developed a desire to shock. An exhibitionist, with a coarse sense of humour, Unity discovered that her love of Nazism allowed her to stand out from the crowd. Having attempted suicide, with a pistol given to her by the Fuhrer, when the Second World War was declared, Unity returned to Britain and spent her last years on Inch Kenneth. There she spent her time improvising religious services in the medieval chapel and planning her own funeral.

Following the death of their mother, Lady Redesdale in 1963, the island was inherited by the surviving Mitford sisters. Diana, Nancy, Deborah and Pamela who sold their shares in the island to their sister, and fellow beneficiary, Jessica. Jessica had previously let it be known that she would donate her part of the island to the Communist Party, and Lord Redesdale cut her out of his will.

The island was sold by Jessica Mitford in the late 1960s and it remains under private ownership. The house belongs now to Charles Darwin’s grand-daughter and is still accessed by a small rowing boat, depending on weather.

Our route to Calgary took us across high moorland, much of it fenced off as Red Grouse have been introduced. We have seen one of these birds on one occasion only. It's another Golden Eagle territory, one of them showed well for us, if distant.

I have SkyGo on my IPad, so we are able to watch the Man City/ Paris Saint Germain European Cup, semi final match. Who do I want to win?